Gigondas 2020, with a very successful label, Grenache and Syrah, 35-year-old vines on clay-limestone and sandy-loam terroir, aged for 12 months in stainless-steel vats, is a full-bodied wine, dominated by notes of leather and ripe blackcurrant, with melted tannins, combining color and substance, to be served with rolled lamb from Nyons or braised veal kidneys (€21). 93/100